Jean's Welcome to Cape Town
Sorry folks, we know it’s been a while but we’ve needed a bit of time (one week in Jean’s case) to move into our new apartment and get settled in. We’ve also discovered we can’t sign up for internet without three months worth of South African bank statements. Anyway we are now on line at home (connected via usb from computer to cellphone). We’re also discovering how important conservation is. Electricity, phone and internet … all pay as you go. You have to buy pre-paid electricity and phone cards and make sure they’re topped up at all times. Otherwise, as we found out, the electricity runs out in the middle of laundry.
It is all good though. Cape Town is a spectacular city. You can not truly put into words how stunning the geography is. Whereever you go there’s an incredible view of Table Mountain. Whereas some mountains look intimidating, Table Mountain, grand as it is, envelops the city in a welcoming and protective way. Omo is determined for us to climb it. I’m scared of heights and think, ‘yeah right”. I may consider the cable car with my eyes closed.
Where do we begin to tell you about Cape Town? The coastline is incredible. We went to a place called Camps Bay to see a guy about our internet. He said “you have to come to Camps Bay it’s beautiful”. We thought okay we’ve seen beauty already. Well…to get there you drive up around the mountain. The view down to the area is mind blowing. We saw the most beautiful sunset there. Of course the area is inhabited by rich White South Africans. Homes are in the range of 10-millon rands (about $2m). We did see two Black women taking dogs for a walk. They were "domestics" walking their employers’dogs.
The racial divide in South Africa has been interesting. About 50% of Cape Town is Coloured. See Omo’s earlier blog about the definition of coloured. Maybe because this is a huge tourism destination, the reception we’ve received has largely been good. We’ve eaten in nice restaurants (the food is amazing and affordable) and haven’t had a problem. We do however see the how the institution of apartheid has not been truly dismantled. We pass communities of shacks on the way to Omo’s work. Black and Coloured people are everywhere begging, hanging out with nothing to do.
I was talking to a personal trainer who’s Coloured. Denzil asked if I’ve seen Cape Town yet? I said I’ve only been here for a week and seen bits and pieces. He said “no the real Cape Town. The townships, the shacks”. Denzil is a condition coach for the South African rugby team but he says he can’t support them because after 12 years, the team is still not diverse.
Desmond Tutu recently told the BBC how he expects social unrest because of the level of poverty and despair amongst Blacks and Coloureds in South Africa. We’ve been told not to go out after dark because of the threat of crime. At first it felt like house arrest. There was also something unnerving about having three locks plus an iron gate on your front door. We have been out and will go out again. The idea is to know exactly where you’re going at night. Even during the day, no maps and camera. They are the undeniable markers of tourists which unfortunately makes you a target for muggers etc. That’s been a problem for me since I love taking pictures and how else can we capture and share the magic of this place?
Omo did a great job of finding a lovely and secure apartment. We also have a car to get around, which is a must. We’re renting a car from Theo, who is Afrikaans. Anyway he kept going on about how we should look after the car, keep it clean, don’t overload it. Then he says “I’m not being racist but the people who misuse my cars are the Blacks. They pack it up with people and go to the beach leave sand in it.” Can you imagine our faces? We let him finish and calmly but firmly put him in his place and reminded him he was talking to two Black people. It really is about ignorance that needs education. Theo and his wife have been lovely to us since. He’s been quite helpful and accommodating.
You know when people say ‘pick your battles?’ We’ve decided when it comes to race here we will be picking EVERY battle.
All in all, we’ve been having a pretty amazing time. Besides the spectacular views, we’ve also been meeting some wonderful people. A woman we were introduced to had us over on Saturday night so we could meet the women’s community here. It was so much fun. It was great to hear the stories from the older women who have been out and active in the community for decades. Plus, the woman’s partner baked the most amazing lemon meringue cheesecake. Omo & I were still talking about it the next morning. Apparently the woman had offered for us to take the leftover pie, and Omo, in her infinite wisdom and desire to get our out of control diet under control (we’ve both reunited with the meat pies and sausage rolls of Omo’s Nigerian and my English childhood and it’s been quite the reunion – our waistlines will tell the tale) she declined. Only for us to see the friends we were giving a ride home carting away the pie. The next morning, we had fantasies about marching over to their apartment and demanding a fair share of the loot.
Like that wasn’t enough fun for one weekend, a lovely couple we had been introduced to by some Canadian friends had us over on Sunday afternoon to celebrate the husband’s birthday. They have the most adorable five-week-old baby. The grandmother is here visiting from Vancouver. There was an older man holding the baby for most of the time we were there so I assumed he was the grandfather. While talking to the grandmother, I asked if that was her husband. She responded, “I don’t have a husband. I have a girlfriend.” I almost choked on my drink. So, we traded coming out stories and had a good laugh. The entire family is very sweet. We plan to get together again soon.
Anyway Omo is hard at work. I’m relaxing, finally over the jetlag, planning trips and places to explore.This weekend we plan to get over to Robben Island.
I have lots of pictures and will post them as soon as we figure out how to. Hopefully, within the next day or two . Now that we have internet access at home, we promise to do a better job of updating the blog. Take care our Canucks.JeanplusOmo
It is all good though. Cape Town is a spectacular city. You can not truly put into words how stunning the geography is. Whereever you go there’s an incredible view of Table Mountain. Whereas some mountains look intimidating, Table Mountain, grand as it is, envelops the city in a welcoming and protective way. Omo is determined for us to climb it. I’m scared of heights and think, ‘yeah right”. I may consider the cable car with my eyes closed.
Where do we begin to tell you about Cape Town? The coastline is incredible. We went to a place called Camps Bay to see a guy about our internet. He said “you have to come to Camps Bay it’s beautiful”. We thought okay we’ve seen beauty already. Well…to get there you drive up around the mountain. The view down to the area is mind blowing. We saw the most beautiful sunset there. Of course the area is inhabited by rich White South Africans. Homes are in the range of 10-millon rands (about $2m). We did see two Black women taking dogs for a walk. They were "domestics" walking their employers’dogs.
The racial divide in South Africa has been interesting. About 50% of Cape Town is Coloured. See Omo’s earlier blog about the definition of coloured. Maybe because this is a huge tourism destination, the reception we’ve received has largely been good. We’ve eaten in nice restaurants (the food is amazing and affordable) and haven’t had a problem. We do however see the how the institution of apartheid has not been truly dismantled. We pass communities of shacks on the way to Omo’s work. Black and Coloured people are everywhere begging, hanging out with nothing to do.
I was talking to a personal trainer who’s Coloured. Denzil asked if I’ve seen Cape Town yet? I said I’ve only been here for a week and seen bits and pieces. He said “no the real Cape Town. The townships, the shacks”. Denzil is a condition coach for the South African rugby team but he says he can’t support them because after 12 years, the team is still not diverse.
Desmond Tutu recently told the BBC how he expects social unrest because of the level of poverty and despair amongst Blacks and Coloureds in South Africa. We’ve been told not to go out after dark because of the threat of crime. At first it felt like house arrest. There was also something unnerving about having three locks plus an iron gate on your front door. We have been out and will go out again. The idea is to know exactly where you’re going at night. Even during the day, no maps and camera. They are the undeniable markers of tourists which unfortunately makes you a target for muggers etc. That’s been a problem for me since I love taking pictures and how else can we capture and share the magic of this place?
Omo did a great job of finding a lovely and secure apartment. We also have a car to get around, which is a must. We’re renting a car from Theo, who is Afrikaans. Anyway he kept going on about how we should look after the car, keep it clean, don’t overload it. Then he says “I’m not being racist but the people who misuse my cars are the Blacks. They pack it up with people and go to the beach leave sand in it.” Can you imagine our faces? We let him finish and calmly but firmly put him in his place and reminded him he was talking to two Black people. It really is about ignorance that needs education. Theo and his wife have been lovely to us since. He’s been quite helpful and accommodating.
You know when people say ‘pick your battles?’ We’ve decided when it comes to race here we will be picking EVERY battle.
All in all, we’ve been having a pretty amazing time. Besides the spectacular views, we’ve also been meeting some wonderful people. A woman we were introduced to had us over on Saturday night so we could meet the women’s community here. It was so much fun. It was great to hear the stories from the older women who have been out and active in the community for decades. Plus, the woman’s partner baked the most amazing lemon meringue cheesecake. Omo & I were still talking about it the next morning. Apparently the woman had offered for us to take the leftover pie, and Omo, in her infinite wisdom and desire to get our out of control diet under control (we’ve both reunited with the meat pies and sausage rolls of Omo’s Nigerian and my English childhood and it’s been quite the reunion – our waistlines will tell the tale) she declined. Only for us to see the friends we were giving a ride home carting away the pie. The next morning, we had fantasies about marching over to their apartment and demanding a fair share of the loot.
Like that wasn’t enough fun for one weekend, a lovely couple we had been introduced to by some Canadian friends had us over on Sunday afternoon to celebrate the husband’s birthday. They have the most adorable five-week-old baby. The grandmother is here visiting from Vancouver. There was an older man holding the baby for most of the time we were there so I assumed he was the grandfather. While talking to the grandmother, I asked if that was her husband. She responded, “I don’t have a husband. I have a girlfriend.” I almost choked on my drink. So, we traded coming out stories and had a good laugh. The entire family is very sweet. We plan to get together again soon.
Anyway Omo is hard at work. I’m relaxing, finally over the jetlag, planning trips and places to explore.This weekend we plan to get over to Robben Island.
I have lots of pictures and will post them as soon as we figure out how to. Hopefully, within the next day or two . Now that we have internet access at home, we promise to do a better job of updating the blog. Take care our Canucks.JeanplusOmo
posted by omoplusjean at 12:15 PM
2 Comments:
That was a nice long update. Omo, I am glad to see that Jean&Joan made it to Cape Town safely, and in one piece. Lucy & I miss you ladies. Long live the goat!
Marsha
I'm fascinated by what you have written, I had no idea about how deep the racial divide went. Missy Elliot is considered coloured? Sounds like you two are having a trip of a life time. Anita and I still want to visit. When you have a chance, give us some insight into hotels etc. I'm a little bit afraid to bring Anita, with that blond hair of hers her status will be elevated even more and she'll soak it up...I know her ;)
Love,
Holly and Anita
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